COMPOSITION
by Diane Bohlen
Instead of looking at composition as a set of ‘rules’ to follow – look at it as a set of ingredients that can be taken out of the pantry at any point and used to make a great photograph. Here are some ingredients:
Rule of Thirds
Break the image into thirds, horizontally and vertically. Find the grid in your camera. Eyes need to rest on something.
Ask yourself, “What are the points of interest?”
Place points of interest, (focal point, subject) on the intersections or along the lines
Place eyes on the intersections
Place vertical objects along the lines.
Once you’ve learnt the rule, you can break it, which can result in striking shots
Place horizons along the lines. Don’t usually put the horizon in the middle. The viewer can’t rest their eyes on one part of the photo but continually flick from top to bottom.
Other types of composition grids: Fibonacci’s spiral and the Phi grid. Fibonacci noticed the ratio 1:1.618 appears often throughout nature and is pleasing to the human eye. When you take the sweet spot of the Fibonnaci Ratio and recreate it four times into a grid, you get what looks to be a rule of thirds grid. However, upon closer inspection you will see that this grid is not an exact splitting of the frame into three pieces. Instead of a 3 piece grid that goes 1+1+1=frame, you a grid that goes 1+1.618+1=frame. Phi Grid. Or the rule of thirds on steroids.
Keep Rule of Thirds in mind when post processing (editing/cropping/reframing) images with editing software.
Now that you have learnt the rules feel free to break them and still make stunning photos. All you need is a passion, a good imagination and practice, practice, practice.
2. Lines
Lines are a powerful element that adds dynamic impact to the image. They can lead the viewer’s eye into the photograph. This doesn’t just happen it needs practice. Look at old photos and find where lines have worked or not. Next time shooting, consciously ask yourself, “What lines can I see and how might I use them? Ask yourself, “Are lines forming a pattern that might add interest?”
Horizontal Lines
Conveys stability and rest
Landscape (wide) horizontal lines give calming and stability
Portrait (narrow) horizontal lines create emphasis
Horizons are the most common horizontal line to be found in photographs and they often act as a dividing point in a photograph – in effect an anchor that the rest of the image is formed around.
An unbroken horizon can lead to a static/boring image. Break it up with other shapes, point of interest, mountains, trees and buildings
Keep the image square and the horizon straight; use the top and the bottom of the viewfinder; use the focal points or the focusing rectangle in the viewfinder; use the grid in the camera; use editing software’s straightening tool.
Not only should horizons be straight but any lines within the image should be straight for example lines behind a portrait and lines in a building etc.
If you are purposely changing the angle always make sure that it is severe not just a little bit crooked.
Vertical Lines
Adds mood, power, strength, growth e.g. Trees, buildings,
They are accentuated if you shoot in vertical framing (portrait)
Keep in line with the sides of the image but when looking up it is not possible so keep the centre line straight or move further away and use wide angle.
Look for patterns with other lines
Remember the Rule of Thirds try not to cut the image in half with a vertical line
These rules can be broken with strong lines for impact
Diagonal Lines
It generally draws the eye of the viewer through the photograph
It adds action and gives a dynamic look and feel
Studies show people usually look from left to right when viewing an image so put the diagonal line from the lower left to the higher right but not corner to corner splitting the image in half
Create points of interest at the intersection of other lines
Repeated lines can create pleasing patterns e.g. wind-blown lines on sand dunes, plowed fields, rows of chairs etc
Intersect lines to create a pattern but be careful not to make it too chaotic
Converging Lines
Multiple lines that converge or come close to one another can lead the viewer’s eye into the shot e.g. Bridges, roads, fences, pathways, power lines, railway tracks, any lines running parallel into the distance.
Experiment with positioning by standing in the centre to give a symmetrical shot. Step to the side to get a diagonal line but not from corner to corner. You can hold the camera at an angle for different positions.
Use a wide-angle lens; it makes the beginning of the lines look wider when standing in the middle.
Position the convergence so that the subject will be where the lines converge and this becomes the focal point. Keep in mind the Rule of Thirds. Be aware that the convergence could be outside the shot.
Converging lines can lead the eye out of the shot but it can create intrigue as to where it is going.
The “s” curve is a strong way to lead the viewer’s eye into the shot.
3. Different Perspectives
Make your images more interesting by changing the angles
Instead of standing and shooting straight on, crouch or lie down and shoot up, this creates impact and a feeling of size. It makes patterns more pronounced. Put the camera on the ground and chance it
Climb above and shoot down.
When photographing children get down to their level and with babies lie on the floor
Hold your camera at an angle creates added interest.
Using a wide-angle lens or a zoom gives different perspectives too.
Some LCD screens can swivel, use it.
4. Focal Point (Point of interest, subject)
The focal point is the central point of interest. You have to think what will draw the eye of the viewers, what is in the image that will make it stand out, and what is the subject. When you look at an image your eyes need a “resting place” a point of interest to hold the eye. Without it people will glance and move on. A focal point can be a person, a building, a mountain, a flower etc.
Position - place the focal point in a prominent position, start with the Rule of Thirds
Focus - learn to use Depth of Field to blur out things in the background and/or the foreground
Blur - play with shutter speeds especially if things are moving around the focal point
Size - make the focal point large
Colour - use contrasting colour to make the focal point stand out
Shape - contrasting shapes and textures can make the subject stand out
Repeated patterns - putting patterns around the subject makes it stand out
Keep in mind a combination of these elements. Don’t have too many focal or secondary points. Don’t clutter.
5. Active Space
In action photography or where anything is moving you need to create space in front of the subject to move into. This is called the active space. The space behind the subject is called dead space. The reason is, when someone views the moving subject his/her eyes naturally move in the direction the object is moving.
Working with the way the image is viewed will create balance, drama and anticipation. The types of subjects are; people running, cycling, swinging, cars etc
Moving animals
Active space is also used in portrait photography. A person should be given space to look into. Leave space o the side of the image where the person is facing or looking.
6. Backgrounds
Backgrounds can enhance the subjects and put them in context (tell a story) or they can overwhelm subjects and be distracting.
Watch out for protruding elements from the subject’s head
Watch out for lines in the background that will compete with the subject. Don’t cut heads off with horizontal lines like the horizon, window ledge, picture frame etc.
Look for light patches and lines that clash.
Check the background before hitting the shutter release. Look for things that don’t belong.
Dealing with Distracting Backgrounds
Use a wide aperture to blur backgrounds and make a shallow Depth of Field.
Fill the frame with the subject. Move in or zoom in.
Filling the frame is also important with still life shots e.g. food at a restaurant or at a market. Use your legs and get close. Crop your shots but be careful major cropping causes noise and you lose quality
While it can be appropriate to take shots that put people in context, don’t let them get lost. Faces disappear when you are a few meters away. So it is important to get as close as you can. Shots come alive with facial expressions like grimaces or laughing.
Move distracting objects like bottles, furniture
Move the subject or move yourself
Watch out for someone else walking into the photo or behind the subject
Use post processing to remove distractions.
Change the angle, landscape to portrait.
Pan with the moving subject to blur the background
Place the subject a long way from the background it will make it blurry. It is best to place the subject in an open field not up against a wall
Use a narrow Depth of Field
Use editing software to remove distractions, to blur, and to change the background to B&W
Make your own backgrounds with coloured card or fabric.7. Framing your shots
7. Figure to Ground
· Figure to ground is the relationship between the subject or figure to the background. It gives a 3D effect. It is a powerful ingredient and once you learn it, it will become a part of every picture you take, no matter what type of camera you use. Figure to ground acts like an anchor in a photograph, holding the viewer’s eye inside the frame. Basically it means have a light figure on a dark ground or a dark figure on a light ground. The opposite to figure to ground is camouflage.
8. Framing
Framing your shots draws attention to the subject by blocking other parts of the image. Use something in the scene to frame the shot.
Benefits of framing
It leads your eye to the main focal point. It draws your eye into the picture and keeps it there longer. It forms a barrier between the subject and the outside of the shot
You can use branches, windows, tunnels, arches, doorways and even people by shooting between heads or over shoulders.
It gives the photo context e.g. archways in a city, foliage for outside
You can blur the frame by using a large aperture or keep it sharp by using a small aperture.
It gives sense of depth and layers if you use something in the foreground to frame the shot
It intrigues the viewer, it makes them wonder a little what is behind the frame but if you get it wrong it can be annoying. Be careful not to let the frame clutter the photo or distract from the subject.
Now that you have learnt the rules feel free to break them and still make stunning photos. All you need is a passion, a good imagination and practice, practice, practice.
Dealing with Distracting Backgrounds
Use a wide aperture to blur backgrounds and make a shallow Depth of Field.
Fill the frame with the subject. Move in or zoom in.
Filling the frame is also important with still life shots e.g. food at a restaurant or at a market. Use your legs and get close. Crop your shots but be careful major cropping causes noise and you lose quality
While it can be appropriate to take shots that put people in context, don’t let them get lost. Faces disappear when you are a few meters away. So it is important to get as close as you can. Shots come alive with facial expressions like grimaces or laughing.
Move distracting objects like bottles, furniture
Move the subject or move yourself
Watch out for someone else walking into the photo or behind the subject
Use post processing to remove distractions.
Change the angle, landscape to portrait.
Pan with the moving subject to blur the background
Place the subject a long way from the background it will make it blurry. It is best to place the subject in an open field not up against a wall
Use a narrow Depth of Field
Use editing software to remove distractions, to blur, and to change the background to B&W
Make your own backgrounds with coloured card or fabric.7. Framing your shots.
7. Figure to Ground
Figure to ground is the relationship between the subject or figure to the background. It gives a 3D effect. It is a powerful ingredient and once you learn it, it will become a part of every picture you take, no matter what type of camera you use. Figure to ground acts like an anchor in a photograph, holding the viewer’s eye inside the frame. Basically it means have a light figure on a dark ground or a dark figure on a light ground. The opposite to figure to ground is camouflage.
Benefits of framing
It leads your eye to the main focal point. It draws your eye into the picture and keeps it there longer. It forms a barrier between the subject and the outside of the shot
You can use branches, windows, tunnels, arches, doorways and even people by shooting between heads or over shoulders.
It gives the photo context e.g. archways in a city, foliage for outside
You can blur the frame by using a large aperture or keep it sharp by using a small aperture.
It gives sense of depth and layers if you use something in the foreground to frame the shot
It intrigues the viewer, it makes them wonder a little what is behind the frame but if you get it wrong it can be annoying. Be careful not to let the frame clutter the photo or distract from the subject.
Now that you have learnt the rules feel free to break them and still make stunning photos. All you need is a passion, a good imagination and practice, practice, practice.
Remember:
A good photo should engage the viewer,
evoke emotion and tell a story.
A great web site for learning about photography is “Digital Photography School”
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